Lloyd Kiva New was the first Native American fashion designer to reach national notoriety. A Scottsdale, AZ designer, he was known for his Native American inspired dresses, most specifically the Squaw dress. The Squaw dress style became immediately sought after when New's works were featured in a July 6, 1953 issue of Life Magazine.
While many variations exist, there are a few defining features which can be considered calling cards of the Squaw dress. The skirts are typically designed in one of three different manners:
A skirt that is slightly gathered and incorporates Navajo patterns into its design. These skirts usually came with two or three distinctly different bodices to afford the wearer a variety of interchangeable options.
A "broomstick" skirt, which was ideal for traveling as the skirt could be easily washed and dried in a lady's stocking to create defined pleats.
A tiered skirt, based on a western style camp dress. To be worn on the patio, these dresses were perfect for invoking the carefree ranch lifestyle of the sunny southwest.
Here is a wonderful video of a fashion newsreel showing off Western Fashions in the 1950's.
By the middle of the 1950's, simple patterns for the Squaw dress were readily available for women everywhere to make and wear their own sunny patio dresses.
These patio dresses were so popular in the 1940's and 1950's that leftovers are easily found at vintage clothing stores and thrift stores throughout the United States today. Maybe even in your own grandmother's closet! If you have a patio dress, the Spring and Summer months are the perfect time to adorn these beautiful pieces, steeped in Native American inspiration.
I threw on what I lovingly call my "Arizona" dress, a 1950s handmade patio or squaw dress with a wonderful novelty print of pink and green cacti, most likely leftover fabric from the 1940s that would have been used to make table clothes or curtains! (Stay tuned for a more detailed discussion on the history of the squaw dress.) This dress was a gift from Yesterday's Lady when I first moved to Phoenix for graduate school. Since then, it has traveled from Phoenix to Germany, Luxembourg, and now Connecticut. The dress has a full circle skirt and the material is gathered and fitted around the waist, a design popular in mid-century dresses for its flattering shape and character. Its characteristic puff sleeves help balance the gathered material around the waist. However, the neckline came up a little too high for my taste, so we brought it into our favorite tailor back in Phoenix and had him update instead with a sweetheart neckline.
It's important for any vintage dress to be adorned with the perfect accessories. In keeping with my Springtime mood, simple but colorful earrings such as these emerald and gold vintage earrings will draw people's attention towards your eyes and face, creating a lovely shimmer in the sunlight. And of course, don't forget your sunnies! I found my vintage inspired glasses online at ModCloth.com.
However, not every accessory has to be vintage. I also found this cute little belt from ModCloth. It actually was a part of an entirely different dress, but it nicely compliments the colors in the Cacti and helps add a little extra shape to the waist.
Don't forget, makeup can be as good of an accessory as any piece of jewelry!
Women in the 1950s did not shy away from wearing bright lipstick. You
will find that this helps work in tandem with rather than in competition against the other bright colors in your outfit; it's all about balance!
For him, don't shy away from bright colors. Spring's color palate is flooded with bright colors that we assume would never work together in an outfit. Be more wary of patterns that might clash, than bright colors! A nice pair of shorts that stop just above the knee or a pair of lightweight pants, a bright short-sleeve button shirt and crisp clean boats shoes can never lead him astray in warm weather. Lastly, for men, a classic leather band timepiece is not just an accessory; it's also a very good excuse to ditch that cellphone for a couple of hours!
Most importantly, don't forget your favorite book! We are currently working our way through A Connecticut Yankee in King Arthur's Court by Hartford's own Mark Twain.
The one 21st-century creature comfort we allowed ourselves was our sunny weather playlist! If you're looking for the perfect track to kickoff your season of sun, we recommend Dave Brubeck's "Take Five!" Brubeck's smooth and carefree West Coast jazz will put you in the mood to lay back, relax, and daydream while watching the clouds morph slowly above your head.
We hope these suggestions help make for a beautiful and memorable Sunday outing with you and yours. If you're looking the perfect drink to fill your flask, check out our recipe for crisp and refreshing Sidecars!
